Tuesday, 22 November 2011

A Namibia-exchange with a future

(Accuracy of claims is in dispute)

Namibia and Germany, 8000 km away. And a cruel past. 100 years after
the genocide by German colonialists young Namibians were now in the
country of the perpetrators - to build bridges to a future together.
Zishen author Anne Wecking has accompanied it.


Round of workshops in the Marie Curie School: Ivan Pieters and Mubasen
Gurirab (fifth and sixth from right) and Mona Lisa Tjiurutue (far
left) talk with students and teachers about the future of the
reconciliation project.

The sugar beet is not any resistance: It is hard to be the thick tuber
pull out of the earth. The sun is low in the sky On this warm
September evening Wülferode. The heat of the day is still above the
field, the farmer explained to the guests from Namibia Brunhilde
Klußmann different growing and harvesting methods. A final jolt, then
the 24-year-old Hennie Gariseb the turnip has torn from the soil. He
shines among the unbelieving eyes and bites into the German companion,
even in the top covered with earth. Sweet would taste the sugar and a
bit earthy. "Not so bad," says Hennie, after he swept over the sandy
lips and passed the tuber has been munched. The crop is making the
rounds, trying almost every delegation wants: a piece of sugar, a
piece of Germany.

To try the seven youths and young adults from Namibia have taken three
weeks time. As part of a reconciliation project they want to learn
about German culture, to understand the mindset and lifestyle of the
people to gather ideas and build contacts and friendships, especially
with peers. For the past of the German-Namibian relationship is dark:
In 1884, Namibia declared to the German Empire colony of German
Southwest Africa. After first uprisings of the indigenous tribes of
Herero and Nama in 1896, the German colonial rulers continued from
1903 through to 1907, with violence. Lieutenant General Lothar von
Trotha ordered to shoot any Herero and Nama within the German border
and destroyed the cattle herds, their livelihood. In the battle at the
Waterberg killed the colonial rulers of thousands of Hereros in 1904,
leaving the survivors in the desert dying of thirst or starvation in
concentration camps. In 31 years of colonial rule as 70000-90000
people have lost their lives. How many have died exactly is not known.

Mona Lisa Tjiurutue was not born until several generations later. She
knows the genocide of their ancestors only from stories. But the
26-year-old anger has never felt so. Not before her first visit to
Germany and while not as well. "Already at the airport, after a
friendly greeting, I felt like home," says the handsome African woman,
as she looked with a dreamy view of an old coal iron. Even here in
front of the wood-framed display case of the local museum Wülferode
there are parallels between Germany and Namibia. Coal irons are a
relic of colonial times. They are sometimes still used today in Africa
- as well as Mona Lisa's grandmother. Mona Lisa is even more modern:
the young woman has her hair loosely restrained with a strap, the neck
is adorned with a yellow bead chain, the nails are manicured. "The
people who have killed our people a hundred years ago are no longer
alive. Why should I hate the Germans, why should I have prejudices?
"She says. The loose use of the past, they have learned on their
journey through Namibia as an actress, tells Mona Lisa. Now the
26-year-old works as a freelance photographer and has been married
since March. "We're young. We are interested in the future, "she says.

Like the six other young Namibians who are a guest in Hannover, the
Mona Lisa is committed to the Youth Reconciliation Project Youth
Action Namibia Germany (YANG). One hundred years after the battle at
the Waterberg, Klaus Windolph, now a retired teacher of Marie Curie
school Ronnenberg, the project in 2004 together with the leaders of
the Herero and Nama launched. YANG to enable an exchange between
Germany and the peoples of Namibia, bringing new ideas and
inspiration.
In 2008, Windolph with a group of pupils in Namibia this year, the
Namibian project group for the first time in Germany has come. Besides
participating in various workshops, meeting with politicians and a
theater project, a visit to Germany in a journey of discovery into a
somehow known and unknown world simultaneously.

Not just the view of the iron combines the heritage museum. In the
evening, the group sits in a cozy pub in Wülferode together. The walls
are adorned with hunting trophies and stuffed heads of deer and deer,
the furniture is rustic. Almost like in Namibia, as well as in South
Africa there are contemplative pubs, but there gemsbok and warthog
hang on the walls.

Mubasen Gurirab points to his white boots: "In Germany I was cleaning
my boots for the first time," he says. In Namibia, was not worth it.
Admit there are few paved roads, says the 34-year-old. And no trams.
That go through the middle of the green features enthusiastic Hanover,
the teacher from Omaruru, a small town north-west of the capital
Windhoek. Just like the football stadium of Hanover 96 "In Omaruru not
even the schools have a sports field. In the whole city is just a
football field, "says the London-Arsenal fan.

Ivan Pieters, head of the delegation fascinated, especially the
environmental friendliness of the Germans. On your way to Hannover
observed the 35-year-old the rotating blades of wind turbines. "Each
touch brings ideas," says the 35-year-old. ". Each view provides
inspiration for the future" for the future of the country and
especially the youth Ivan does a lot: He is a teacher, has good
contacts with the policy and is also active as an entrepreneur of his
own road construction company. The young man with short hair and broad
shoulders has big plans: In the future, even in his home town of
Mariental provide for wind energy. Initial contacts have been
initiated by Ivan.

When it comes to the YANG contact with companies and politicians, but
also about the friendships between young adults and students from
Namibia from Hanover. Hannah Klischat is one of them. The
Neuntklässlerin the Marie Curie School and Ivan are dazzling. Shortly
before they have with the rest of the group and students with the
country training center for blind people still stood on the stage. Now
is lunch time. Both are sitting on a creaky swing. When back-and-fro
swinging swinging loosely Hannah's legs in the air, her blond hair
blowing in the wind. "In advance, I am ashamed for the actions of the
German," admits the 14-year-old. The openness of the Namibian she had
overcome her inhibitions, however quickly. For Hannah, it is clear
that she wants to stay involved after the YANG-group in the Namibia-AG
in their school. The Marie Curie School Ronnenberg cultivates
sponsorships since 1998 in Namibia. There is currently a sponsor for
the Senior Secondary School in Omaruru SIGobs. "I would enjoy
traveling to Namibia to visit Ivan," said Hannah. For now it remains
only Facebook to stay friends with Ivan. Not losing contact, which is
anyway the most important thing is sure.

The youth and the country influence with new ideas for the youth and
young adults have three weeks in Germany sought inspiration - and
found. Leader Ivan wants to promote new environmental technologies.
London Arsenal fan will give Mubasen Namibian athletes the opportunity
to gain experience training in Germany. Hennie, whose favorite food
now include sugar beets would in future advocate for equal
opportunities in employment. And photographer Mona Lisa has set itself
the objective to support exchanges between students from Germany and
Namibia.

With their curiosity, the young adults Germany have explored to some
extent - with all their senses. And as Hennie has dug in on the field
after the sugar beet Wülferode so want the young people at home in
Namibia are trying their own future. Step by step. "What's done is
done," says Hennie. "Despite the past, we should stick together and
smile - Germany and Namibia and all the young people of this world."

For summer 2012, the return visit is planned - then discover that a
group of German students of Namibia and the exchange will continue.

The dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park

Namibia
Next stop: Dune 45

Perfect swing against blue sky. The dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park,
where the number 45 are probably the most photographed mountains of
sand on the planet.

In the "Desert Express" slowly through Namibia. The country surprised
- not only by its enormous size.

Ottilie has built its sales stand directly on the platform. Your offer
is quite clear. It includes two plastic pots with lollipops, a jar
full of candies and licorice with a gummy bear. The shopkeeper waits
in vain for customers. The waiting room in the small station of
Windhoek is barren and empty. This is one of Namibia's capital 250 000
officially and unofficially even more than half a million inhabitants.
In this country, almost no one takes the train, they say. Except for a
few tourists.

The climb from the regular and special trains used. But the nearly
four dozen visitors from Europe who were carted up in two buses that
have no interest in Ottilie's improvised kiosk.


Nervously, they go on the "Desert Express" along which they have
booked for a twelve-day tour of the southwest African country.
Frantically, they compare the names of the cars with the label of
their Kofferschildchen. "Meerkat", "Springbok", "Oryx" and "Kokerboom"
are the four sleeping cars, which include six compartments, each with
three beds, private shower, sink, toilet, air conditioning and safe.
Also on the trip also go a salon, a bistro and a conference car,
smoking is allowed in the. A car is for the attendants, and baggage
for a generator. Forget not: the rolling restaurant is named after the
Welwetschia mirabilis, an archaic plant occurring only here.

Eventually, the train rumbles off, hold briefly, it continues to roll
and take leisurely ride. The rhythmic pounding of the wheels, the
tramp of the locomotive, the chatter of the bed hinges, groaning
softly wood paneling of the compartment - sounds like the tune from
now on our journey. In the dining car is already very busy. Finally,
the guests since the early morning on the legs, and long before the
journey had been made them extraordinary culinary specialties in view:
Carpaccio of springbok, zebra steaks, steak of ostrich fillets of the
Oryx, the kudu and eland antelope . These can be served in George, the
local bartender, fine wines from South Africa or in accordance with
German beer purity law of Namibian production.

Despite all the amenities - the "Desert Express" is not a luxury
train. And the program the next few days is anything but a recreation
tour. All the more astonishing, who has decided to participate: mostly
retirees, many of them already in an advanced age, retired teachers,
doctors at the old part, but also artisans and workers. Many of them
probably have not expected that on this trip almost every day at six
in the alarm clock rings and periodic excursions into the natural hot
dusty considerable physical exertions are to be accepted. For all
eventualities but Horst Bunte, the ship's doctor, there.

The "Desert Express" is not an express train. With more than 50, but
usually much less kilometers per hour, he puffs on the Namibian bumpy
track, so that will be returned at the end of the trip just 2264
kilometers of track. Much more would be hardly possible, because the
entire railway network in Namibia comprises little more than 3,000
kilometers. Probably for this reason the ride is often interrupted by
extensive downtime. At night insured, the tour guide at the start, the
wheels sometimes quietly, so that guests can sleep in peace.

Who still zutut no eye can always enjoy the cloudless sky, look for
the "Southern Cross" on the lookout, the magnificent, gentle look of
moonlit landscapes. Also during the day is the one time in the "Jewel
of the Desert," the other, less misleading name of "Desert Express",
not long. How to attract a cinema screen steppes, past mountains, dry
river valleys, and a few dirt road, barely trafficked asphalt roads to
the panoramic windows. Namibia's landscapes seem empty and deserted as
many villages. With two inhabitants per square kilometer, the country
is one of the most sparsely populated of the earth. On an area more
than twice as large as Germany is home to just over two million
people.

In order to get direct contact with the Namibian reality, have to
leave the cocoon of his train compartment. This provides an
opportunity the next morning. Near the border with South Africa, we
reach Hoolog, a former water authority. Two buses are waiting. They
bring us in about an hour after Hobas also little more than one
station with toilets and a souvenir shop. "Do not forget a sun hat and
sun cream! Drinking water and always beautiful! "Inge exhorts us, our
tour guide. Without haste her group walked to the edge of the Fish
River Canyon. The 160 km long, up to 27 kilometers wide and 500 feet
deep gorge in places, the world's second largest after the Grand
Canyon erosion valley, is one of the greatest natural wonders of
Africa.

After a detour to the Quiver Tree Forest near Keetmanshoop, it goes in
the first train back north. Then take the bus from Mariental hours the
Namib Desert. Where the Tsauchab River in the rust-red sand dry ears
and, eyeless moles dig through the loose ground and stretch in the
morning the fog drinkers beetles at one end stand the rump in the air
in order to pour the dew drops straight down her back in her mouth,
spend we have two nights in the luxurious Sossusvlei Lodge.

During the evening desert picnics, at the sight of the immense starry
firmament Namibian, even silenced those gentlemen from the group, who
often complain about something else. In the morning, but then they
complain again going through the cool wind and the dust that whirl at
the open jeeps driving through the Namib, the oldest desert in the
world. While today's excursion leads to one of the most famous and
probably the most photographed dune planet. Like a sand island, she
rises from the bone-dry plain, her comb rassiermesserscharfer draws a
perfect swing against the deep blue sky. Only her name sounds too
prosaic: Dune 45 - a term that derives from the fact that the
brick-red, 300-meter high sand hills in the "large body of water", the
literal translation of Sossusvlei, has simplicity numbered.

The next day again many hours by bus ahead of us. "Thirsty? Hungry?
Sleepy? "Ask the signs on the edge of the runway, which point to
service stations and accommodation. The hot desert scattered farms in
the humpbacked "Rostock" or "Silesia", the highest elevations
Vogelfederberg and Gamsberg Pass. They offer rings, the South African
with Austrian roots, an opportunity for a detailed history lesson on
board. That Namibia from 1884 to 1915 under the German "protectorate"
was the colonial masters and 1904-1908 by the bloody suppression of
the Herero and Nama uprisings substantial debt was charging their
guests knew well before the trip. However, they are puzzled about how
much has survived from this anything but glorious past to the present.

Especially the coastal town of Swakopmund with its architecture
recalls, his business and the common everyday language of the former
"German South West Africa". Remains finite at one of the otherwise
tightly organized by days of travel a little time to move away from
the troops themselves and between pharmacies, butcher shops and
bookstores - to represent the seat of a long stiff legs - all with
German names. So then stroll every couple, every single travelers for
by the Bismarck, the lime and the Luderitz road to end up on a cold
beer at the "Swakopmund Brauhaus", has been converted into a luxury
hotel Wilhelmine station or in the "Wernesgrüner pub" einzukehren. One
in five of the 25 000 residents in the southern seaside resort of the
former empire is of German descent.

Gradually approaches the highlight of any trip to Namibia. Across the
Erongo Mountains and the Otavi highlands is coming to meet the Chinese
Diesel their load to the Etosha National Park, the largest game
reserve in the country, which extends over almost 23 000 square
kilometers and thus almost half as large as Switzerland. After a long
journey, the station is simple with the name "KM 72" reach. From here
it goes in the bus to Lindequist Gate, the eastern entrance of Etosha
Park. Hardly the driveway is happening, shows even the local fauna.
Initially only in the form of cutesy dik, an extremely short-legged
antelope, peeking out from the shadow of a low bush. Then a frightful
meerkats clan. Because of the animals we have taken all the efforts on
us - but what about the lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos? Patience
calls, the tour guide. "The famous 'Big Five' but will not get you all
to face, because there are no buffalo."

Unlike other African parks where the tourists in their search for wild
animals often have to wait for days, appropriate meetings in the
Etosha area are virtually guaranteed. In particular, the numerous
water bodies are excellent for wildlife viewing. To pay without the
parked jeeps and buses even the slightest attention to approach the
zebra, springbok, the elegant, the approaching spring trotting impala,
wildebeest with the sombre faces, the cautious giraffes. Also,
elephants, warthogs, kudu and the eared oryx with the stilted pointed
horns silent on the drinking holes in peace their thirst. Only
sometimes on game drives and the anxious-backed jackal or lion can be
observed.

The drive back to Windhoek is once again because of the images and
scenes in memory that are taking place outside the train window. For
hours we roll along the fences of large private ranches along, where
the animals are sometimes downright trellis: giraffes, the show is
just as curious as the train passengers, Springboks, who have gathered
under the shady trees, baboons, the gymnastics fear of barbed wire. A
rider believes one of the fellows have waved ... Well, it was a tiring
trip.

Round trip Namib Desert in Namibia very luxurious experience

A sundowner on the sand dunes of the Namib could be the culmination of
an amazing journey. Talk to the travel consultants choose us: You have
traveled extensively and know Namibia Country Lodges and very well and
can advise you specifically and very competent.

A flight over the sand dunes of the Namib Desert is something very
special. It is advisable to book due to the large distances in Namibia
a flying safari. This way you can experience the fantastic views of
the landscape virtually "on schedule".

A flight over the sand dunes of the Namib Desert is something very
special. It is advisable to book due to the large distances in Namibia
a flying safari. This way you can experience the fantastic views of
the landscape virtually "on schedule".


The dunes of Sossusvlei, the highest sand dunes in the world. Note the
size of the vehicle and the people in comparison to the sand hills.
set up.

Also in Doro Nawas you have the opportunity to sleep under the open
sky - a very special experience.

In the Etosha National Park, you can experience breathtaking safaris.
I'm sure you will view it, the Oryx, national animal of Namibia.

The king of the animals must not be missed on a safari.

You live in the very exclusive Little Ongava Lodge. The lodge is
situated on a hill in the Ongava Private Game Reserve, Wilderness
Safaris, which is located directly adjacent to the Etosha National
Park. The spectacular chalets offer a private pool, sala and fantastic
views of the African landscape.

The bathrooms of the Little Ongava Lodge chalets are very luxurious.
From here you have a beautiful view.

Relax in luxurious dreamy atmosphere.

On the plane over the Namib Desert, one night in bed under the open
sky: a tour of Namibia - the former German South West - will provide
unforgettable moments.
The camps and lodges of Wilderness Safaris are all located in places
of great beauty, often in an exclusive area and in private concession
areas. No question: The Premier Camps are among the best of what
Namibia has to offer in top hotels. Start your dream trip, for
example, in the Namib. You would not have seen Namibia, if you do not
Sossusvlei with its red sand dunes - the way the highest on earth -
would attend. You can live here in the wonderful Little Kulala Lodge.
The chalets offer unique views of the desert landscape and a
sophisticated, luxurious facilities and sun deck and private pool. The
key: If desired, you can stay on the roof of your chalet under the
stars. Subsequently, a brief visit to Damaraland, where you can live
royally in Doro Nawas Camp. The unique semi-desert landscape and
atmosphere of the camp will inspire you. Do not miss a safari in the
Etosha National Park. It is best to live in the Little Ongava Lodge:
The exclusive lodge situated on a hill and from the chalets you can
enjoy fantastic views of the African landscape. The exclusivity of a
visit to the Skeleton Coast Camp lies mainly in its position, the only
operator Wilderness Safaris has a concession in the northern section
of the Skeleton Coast, a stay is a real privilege. You can complete
your dream trip through Namibia in Serra Cafema Camp on the Kunene
River in the north of Namibia. Here you can relax in a unique
Naturatmosphöre before you depart from Windhoek after an unforgettable
holiday your home.
To discover the unique nature of the country, you can go into the
wilderness and as a graceful giraffe watch as she traverses the Etosha
salt pan, or seeing a gemsbok climb the red sand dunes of Sossusvlei.
The contrasts are everywhere, so relax and enjoy, and photograph.

The country is also interesting from the perspective of a safari
destination. First and foremost of course is one of the Etosha
National Park, with its many animals, one of the top safari top of the
country. A special treat is a safari to the Skeleton Coast. It's less
about wildlife viewing and more about experiencing the fascinating
landscape and meeting the animals at the oases, which were formed amid
barren sand areas.

The Etosha National Park with its large wild population, the red dunes
of Sossusvlei, Damaraland and Kaokoland are attractions that attract
many travelers Africa magical. Small, cozy and very luxurious camp
lodges were built in some very remote parts of Namibia, to accommodate
guests who are looking for the original Africa.

Enjoy the best comforts of a fly-in safari: Here are quick results and
experience also have the advantage of the fantastic nature of the
bird's eye view. Particularly spectacular is a panoramic flight over
the sand dunes of the Namib desert - the experience you will not
forget so quickly.

Saturday, 12 November 2011